Pienza, Italy — One of the Amazing Towns in Tuscany
What to do and see in Pienza
Why is Pienza my favorite town in Italy? Let me tell you why!
How to Get to Pienza.
From the North. Take A1 (Florence-Rome Autostrada del Sole), exit at Valdichiana/Bettole, continue towards Torrita di Siena-Pienza, following signs for Pienza.
From the South. Take A-1 (Rome-Florence Autostrada del Sole), exit at Chiusi/Chianciano Terme, take SS 146 for Chianciano Terme, Montepulciano, Pienza.
First, A Little Pienza History.
Pienza, as we know it today with its palazzo, cathedral, and town hall, was reconstructed as the “perfect Renaissance town” between the years 1450-1462 by Bernardo Rossellino, commissioned and designed by Aeneas Silvio Piccolomini, who later became Pope Pius II.
Even today the city’s inhabitants are proud to say Pienza was the home of a pope. Just ask them about it. Still a fully functioning city of 2000 inhabitants, Pienza has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1996.
Must-See Attractions in Pienza.
Piazzo Pio.
Piazzo Pio is the historic city square between the church and the town hall. Small according to other bigger cities, it is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the city’s harmony.
Palazzo Piccolomini.
Designed by Pope Pius II as his summer palace, Palazzo Piccolomini is open for touring for a fee and to experience a breathtaking view above the Val D’Orcia from the balcony. Tickets for the interior are under 20 Euros, including an audio guide, if you care to peek inside to view period costumes and furniture and hear more about the history as well. Be sure to check the times that tours are available. Closed on Tuesdays.
In 1969, Director Franco Zefferelli filmed Romeo and Juliet here, and you can pose in front of the actors’ pictures if you like for no fee.
Il Duomo di Pienza.
In the Piazza Pio, the star attraction is the Duomo di Pienza, or cathedral. Designed in the Renaissance style and adorned with a travertine façade, one is struck by the amount of natural light in the cathedral interior, unhindered by dark tapestries and adornments. This was the intent of Pope Pius II. The result is a peaceful ambiance welcome in the busyness of touring.
Hint: Look for the Piccolomini Coat of Arms, the cinque lune, or cross with five crescents. It is said that the coat of arms is visible 400 times in the Cathedral. If you have kids, have them hunt for these, and don’t forget the one outside in the gable at the top of the Duomo. The Romance of Pienza and a touch of Hollywood.
Roaming the romantic streets of Pienza is a treat in itself, as it seems surprises await in every alley. With streets named “Via dell-Amore” (Street of Love) and “Via Bacio” (Street of the Kiss), what would one expect? The biggest thrill of all is the view from the city’s balcony back of the church, along the city walls.
This is called the “Camminata Panoramica” and from here, the view of the Val D’Orcia is unparalleled. My favorite view in Italy. For a special treat, have an aperitif on the balcony and enjoy the view.
Below you are the wheat fields Russell Crowe rode by as he returned to his home from his adventures as the Gladiator, and off to the lower right is the home where his movie family resided.
If you feel adventurous, hike just below Pienza, or drive, to the Pieve di Corsignano, the 7th Century church where Pope Pius II was baptized.
From there, hike about 600 meters along the road to Agriturismo Terripille, to reminisce the scenes from the Gladiator and to take some of the best photos of the Val D’Orcia. (It is best not to go to the agriturismo itself unless you are a guest.)
The Agriturismo Terripile is a beautiful, fully-functioning bed and breakfast and they even have a clip from the movie on their website. For the superfan, this is the perfect place to stay.
What to do in Pienza? Shopping!
(Go early or late as many shops take siesta in the afternoon between 1:00 and 4:00.) For such a small town, Pienza has surprisingly good shopping opportunities, and often for better prices than in the big cities. Ceramics. Just inside the front gate is a shop that features the works of budding ceramicists. Look for it on the left as you enter the city.
Here is the set I purchased there.
To witness a master at work in her cave-like workshop, visit Ceramiche d’arte di Bai Linda at Via Gozzante, 33. Wrought Iron. The Biagiotti family features four generations of wrought ironmasters.
I especially love their cypress trees and plan to purchase a few upon my return to Pienza. The showroom is in front of the cathedral at Corso Rossellino, 69, and the workshop is on the road to Montepulciano (SS 146) from Pienza.
Linens.
For Tuscan linens, visit Altroieri on Corso Il Rossellino, 8. A great selection of Tuscan-made tablecloths and tea towels await. Leather. Calzoleria Pientina at Via Gozzante, 22, features handmade shoes, handbags, and belts, and is worth a stop.
Food, especially cheese, and wine.
Pecorino cheese is the star of the show in Pienza, along with their own pici pasta. Look for them throughout Pienza in numerous shops and restaurants.
La Taverna del Pecorino. One of the best places to sample the different varieties of pecorino cheese. They offer meats and cheeses, olive oil, wine, balsamic vinegar, and gift packs to ship home. You will find them at Via Condotti, 1. La Bottega del Naturista.
Great cheese in a friendly atmosphere. The difference here is that this business is a small family-run venture located in Pienza that creates its own sheep and goat cheeses.
Also in their shop are local honey, jams, salami, and wine. They will vacuum-seal for travel as well. Corso Il Rosellino, 16. Enoteca di Ghino. Many shops will sample wine, but here is a selection of fine wines from the area. Via del Leone, 16.
What to See That is Close to Pienza
Monticchiello.
Monticchiello is a charming very small town just 4km from Pienza. Get away from the hustle and bustle of tourism and enjoy relaxing in an almost-forgotten hill town. Art. The best watercolors of the Val D’Orcia (in my opinion) can be found in Montichiello at the Art Studio di Adelina Quadri.
The journey is worth the 4km. You will love the depictions of the cypresses and the colors and romance of the Val D’Orcia, at affordable prices for your home.
Here is the one I took home: You may want to let Francesco know you are coming as they are not open at all hours. You may contact him at Casa di Adelina, or by phone at: 3-905-787-55167.
Finally, Where to Eat in Pienza and nearby.
Three Favorites and One to Try:
In Monticchiello, at Via San Luigi, 3. – Daria’s.
Our all-time favorite Tuscan restaurant. Daria’s is Michelin-mentioned at affordable prices. The wine list is top-notch but not over-priced. You will be so glad that you have chosen this place, just a few miles from Pienza.
Part of the charm of this place is the vivacious, yet genuine personality of Daria herself. We have dined with her twice in Tuscany and each time has been memorable. Hint: Make reservations on The Fork before leaving home, because tables are highly sought-after. Park in the parking lot at the bottom of town and walk the few steps to the town center. Daria’s staff offers a cooking class as well.
In Pienza,
Trattoria La Buca delle Fate.
You always know you have chosen your eating establishment well when the locals and native Italians dine here. That’s the case at La Buca delle Fate. Right on the main street (Il Corso Rossellini, 38), this is the perfect place for lunch or dinner. Again, reservations are always a good idea.
Between Pienza and Montepulciano. (Via della Boccia, 8, Just off of SP 146.) A picnic at the farm at Caseificio Cugusi Silvana Dairy.
Weather-permitting, come to grab a basket and fill it with your choice of locally-made cheeses, meats, and condiments, along with fresh bread and wine or beer. Tables and cloths are provided for a spectacular view of the Val D’Orcia. Open every day from 9:00 to 18:00 from April 1 to October 31. Book ahead with an email letting them know when you plan to arrive and the number in your party. You may also phone 0578757558.
For our next trip:
Strada Provenciale del Monte Amiata, 18, Pienza, heading south from Pienza on SP 18. Reviews are great for this place at an agriturismo, both for the food and for the warmth of the service. Views of the Val D’Orcia are touted as well. Might be a great place to view the sunset, though not always from your table. Make reservations ahead for lunch or dinner
Where to Stay in Pienza and Nearby.
La Casa di’Adelina Charming House.
Bed and Breakast, Piazza San Martino, 3. Montichiello.
Do not look any further. This is where you need to stay! This unassuming Italian home, which has been in Francesco’s family for 400 years, is your home in the Val D’Orcia.
You may access the hotel by driving inside the walls of the city and then you may park for free in the parking lot just below the city. Just a few steps away. Given the coveted three stars from Frommer! And it’s at a reasonable price! Three floors of rooms, but don’t worry—Francesco will take your luggage up if needed.
Rooms are authentically furnished with antiques. Wi-Fi, shared lounge space, and air-conditioning are available. The best parts—are the warmth of the welcome and the incredible homemade breakfasts! Handmade breads and impeccable table- styling with Italian-made pottery. Every day is different! Coffee is created to your taste as well. Walking distance to Daria’s mentioned above.
Pienza, Italy—A TuscanTravel Guide
Pienza from Monticchiello
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