The Magic of Assisi
Eating, shopping, and wandering in Assisi. YES, Assisi IS worth the Visit!
“You have to see Assisi, it is magical!” my fellow professor said to me. And that started the planning to visit a place off of our original itinerary. And that started a love affair with a hill town in Italy. We soon found that eating, shopping, and wandering in Assisi would become a love during the 2 trips to Assisi. We recognized the Magic of Assisi!
Assisi, Italy, has a charm like no other. Big enough to encourage exploration, but small enough to taste the real Italy. Plus a magnificent Basilica to savor and explore. You will wander, you will shop, you will eat, and as you do you will tell yourself, “I WILL return to Assisi.”
Driving into Assisi, our first view of the city on the hill gave us a preview of what was to come. This is what we saw.
We had made reservations at Hotel Ideale, which turned out to be a very good decision. The only issue was that the driveway is one of those on a little hill, so at the top of that hill and the entrance to the hotel parking lot, you cannot see where you are going and it looks like you are going off a cliff.
We passed the entry two or three times and looked for another entrance, taking our path down some wrong-way streets (the wrong way) before we circled around, I got out of the car, and checked where the driveway led. Then Ron inched the car into their driveway and the private, tree-lined parking lot.
Returning to Italy for the second time in 2019, we stayed again at the Hotel Ideale because we enjoyed it so much the first time. Why?
1). Location, location, location.
Located on the edge of the town away from the busy areas, Hotel Ideale overlooks the valley below. Birds chirp in the mornings and the peaceful view is breathtaking. It is a short walk into the center of Assisi and only one km. to the Basilica itself.
2). The family feeling.
Operated by Dino and his family, the familial pride of running an establishment of top quality is apparent. You are greeted by friendly faces at all times.
3). Cleanliness.
What else can I say? Spotless!
4). Décor.
Old World charm with a taste of artistry. (pink ceramic hand-crafted sink, beautifully tiled bathrooms).
5). BREAKFAST!!!
Dino greets you to take your order for coffee. They even have decaf cappuccino! The full buffet includes homemade pastries made by Dino’s daughter daily, fresh fruit, salamis, cheeses, vegetables, and even hard-boiled eggs.
What do you do in Assisi all day? ……..Wander! If you’ve ever been to a hill town in Italy, you already know this is a favorite pastime. Wander down streets, duck into shops, have gelato, drink a coffee, and have a glass of wine. Relax and enjoy.
The Magic of Assisi is found at the end of town, at the Basilica. A tribute to Saint Francis of Assisi and constructed in the 1200s, the Basilica is the highlight of the city. Tour buses start arriving early (between 9 and 10), so arrive at the Basilica before they appear on the scene and you may have the spacious Basilica almost to yourself, even in the summer.
Check the schedule on the website (see below). On our first trip, we arrived just as mass was finishing (about 8:45 am) and were treated to an impromptu organ concert by one of the friars. One of those magical moments, for sure.
Tour both the Lower and Upper Basilicas. Guided tours are available if you like.
Go to the Basilica website for information. (We just wandered on our own) .
Need a coffee after your visit?
Right across the street from the Basilica is a little coffee bar…mostly remarkable for its convenient location.
Shop
Three recommendations, and a hint:
Hint: Get to know the artisans in these places. Talk to them about their families and their work. You will be amazed at the history behind the products.
Assisi Jewels is a local jewelry store where you can buy handcrafted pendants, rings, and other mementos of your visit. The Humilis Collection is made in Assisi and is an authentic remembrance. They also have a website that gets great reviews. I especially love the pendants depicting the rose window from the Basilica. Just walk up Via San Francesco from the Basilica.
Il Tapiro, handmade leather goods by Mauro and his wife. Located now (2019) in a kiosk in the plaza by Santa Chiara church, Mauro makes only handbags and accessories, but you will find authentic leather items that are unique from the other mass-market leather goods you may find in town. The prices are reasonable.
In 2015, I purchased a handbag for myself and a pair of sandals for my daughter, that were top quality and have lasted over four years of use. Unfortunately, Mauro no longer makes sandals. Here is a picture from the 2015 visit. La Bottega Acquerelli Via San Francesco,22—again right up the street from the Basilica.
Original artwork from Assisi, crafted in 1931 by Massimo Favaroni and his family.
The family still lives above the shop. Visiting Massimo, you will quickly be aware of his passion for his family, the city of Assisi, and his work. We bought two small tile plaques to display in our kitchen, and he treated us to two bookmarks as well. A wonderful experience and a hard choice to make.
Again, the Magic of Assisi in the shopping!
Food
Many good places, and one great: Il Baccanale How do you know that you have selected a restaurant well, in Italy?
1). You arrive at 7:30 PM and you are the only ones there.
2). The owner comes in to make sure you have a reservation. “Are you Jane?” (Like I would be leaving if I wasn’t Jane), and
3). The place is full by 8:00 PM, with Italians, and you are the only Americans there. Loud. Babies everywhere. Magical.
That was the case the night we visited Il Baccanale in Assisi. I had made reservations before leaving home. On arrival in Assisi, have your hotel double-check the time, to be sure connections were made correctly with the time difference. (Remember making a phone call in Italy may cost you more than you think, depending on your plan.)
Note: I have had really great luck booking with The Fork, the new Trip Advisor function that books restaurants internationally. Look up your restaurant on Trip Advisor and book the day and time you desire.
What do you do when you are the only American in the place, and the place is packed? When babies are plentiful and not looked down on? When the food is unimaginably fresh and well-flavored? You look back and be thankful you are there! That happened to us at Il Baccanale in Assisi.
Ron talked me into an Appertivo of bread, toppings, and cheese, followed by a primo of unforgettable gnocchi with tomatoes and zucchini and pesto, and then (since he said it’s the Italian way)–secondo with roasted pork and red onions, with slight licorice (fennel) flavor.
This was followed by an art competition finale in the restaurant. ( I looked like I knew what was going on and, don’t worry, clapped appropriately). Again, another example of the Magic of Assisi.
Yes, the evening was magical, and one of those serendipities of travel you never, ever forget.
Other posts and locations you may want to visit on your travels:
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